Traditional Crafts used in the Collections
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Craft Name: Seesho Bharat/ Abla Embroidery
Location: Bhuj, Gujarat
Community: Ahir/ Rabari
Similar Crafts in the world: Lambani
Sheesha, which means mirror, and in other words abla embroidery, originated in the 17th century. When it first came into existence, this kind of needlework was done using mica, but gradually the artisans used glass which was blown into small pieces for this kind of work. This concept initially took birth in Iran during the Mughal era. Shisheh is a Persian term for glass, and over the years it became popular in India, especially in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Haryana and Delhi, apart from several other states. This kind of embroidery is most commonly found in clothes, wall hangings, and several other household decorations. Apart from decorative purposes, abla embroidery also has religious significance, in particular for Muslims and Jains who use ‘shisha toran’, which is a wall hanging tied to the front door and gets rid of evil eyes.
Process:
- This kind of embroidery is one in which round pieces of mirror are decorated on fabrics like cotton and chiffon using buttonhole stitching.
- Silk thread is used in several colours like light green, indigo, dark red and pink. The craftsmen use a large variety of stitches to decorate several objects.
- It represents the Gujarati tradition, in particular the aura of festivity and joy.
- The mirrors come in several sizes and can be used on dupattas, sarees, lehengas, and blouses.
Source :
https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/abla-embroidery-reflecting-indian-spirit/
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zszxRRwa_kg/VvukjPRAvkI/AAAAAAAARu4/T8IkJRNqkBExrbw3-6hv80AiMx_U8JrmA/s1600/Abla%2BBharat.JPG
Craft Name: Chikankari Applique
Location: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
Community: Not Specific
Chikankari is an ancient form of white floral embroidery, intricately worked with needle and thread on a variety of fabrics like cotton, muslin, silk, organza etc. There are 36 types of embroidery stitches used in chikan work. The word 'chikan’ is probably a derivative of the Persian word ‘chikin’ or 'chikeen' which means a kind of embroidered fabric. It is said to have been originally introduced by Noorjehan, the beautiful wife of the Mughal emperor Jahangir. Since then, it has evolved and attained its glory and perfection in Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh. Today it is a practiced tradition and an important commercial activity in the city.
Process:
- First, the fabric is cut into the required pattern as per the garment shape.
- The embroidery design is transferred using blocks, khaka (tracing paper) with a mix of ‘neel’ powder.
- Silk, cotton and polyester threads are employed for embroidery work on sarees, dupattas, table linen and kurtas. Cotton being the most preferred choice, chikankari is also done on mulls, muslins, voiles, organza and polyester. Some more include chiffon, viscose, georgette, polyester georgette, cotton crepe and net.
- The patterns and effects depend on the types of stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used in the embroidery.
- After completion, the article is checked carefully for defects.
- Garments are soaked overnight in a mix of caustic soda, bleach, detergent powder and soap overnight and washed with water the following day.
Source :
https://www.dsource.in/resource/chikankari-embroidery-lucknow/process/taankaembroidery
https://www.dsource.in/resource/chikankari-embroidery-lucknow/process/chapayiprinting
https://www.dsource.in/resource/chikankari-embroidery-lucknow/process/dhulayi-washing
https://www.dsource.in/resource/chikankari-embroidery-lucknow/introduction
https://i0.wp.com/www.theheritagelab.in/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/chikanembroidery_lucknow.jpg?resize=1068%2C601&ssl=1
Craft Name: Zardozi Embroidery
Location: Bhuj, Kutch, Gujarat
Community: Muslim Community
Similar Crafts in the world: Metal Embroideries
Zardozi is a form of hand embroidery, that originated in Persia whereas “zar” means gold and “dozi” means embroidery. The embroidery involves the decoration of fabric with a special hook needle, metallic threads, colourful yarn, pearls, beads, quills, sequins etc.
The Mughal conquerors introduced this heavy and unique style of hand embroidery to India. In the Mughal era, zardozi work was used to decorate tent walls in the form of wall hangings as well as accessories for royal elephants and horses. Zardozi's workmanship differs from other traditional Indian embroideries like chikankari, sujni, kantha, kasuti, toda etc.
Traditionally, the Muslim communities residing in different parts of India executed zardozi work. The zardozi designs and subjects vary in different parts of the country.
Process:
- The plain fabric that has to be embroidered is framed tightly to the round or rectangular wooden frame.
- The required patterns or designs are created directly on the fabric with the tailor’s chalk or transferred through tracing paper.
- The artisan starts with an aari chain stitch. The stitches are done by holding the thread with a finger at the reverse of the framed fabric and an aari hook, a sharp-pointed awl-like needle, held on the top.
- The aari hook is pierced through the cloth to pull up the thread from the backside of the framed cloth and each stitch new stitch tightens the previous one.
- These stitches are similar to the cobbler’s stitch and the process of embroidering is repeated until the required design is formed on the surface of the fabric.
- Sequins, beads or twisted metallic wires maybe used additionally to enrich the embroidery.
Source :
https://www.dsource.in/resource/aari-zardozi-ahmedabad-gujarat/making-process
https://www.dsource.in/resource/aari-zardozi-ahmedabad-gujarat/introduction
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zSNZ2RKrEvc/Ur1pZDnuS1I/AAAAAAAAKnw/eX0NN4g5PXc/s1600/zardozi+peacock.jpg
Craft Name: Mukaish
Location: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh / Gujarat/ Maharastra
Community: Muslim Community
Mukaish, an almost dying craft of Lucknow, is an age-old embroidery where thin strips of metallic wire are inserted into the fabric and then twisted to create metallic embroidery. Very few karigars or practitioners make exclusive mukaish sarees. The technique is largely used to highlight or adorn heavy chikankari embroidery.
Process:
- Firstly, the motif or pattern to be embroidered is printed on the fabric (usually a pure chiffon or georgette) with a ‘neel’ powder. This could be transferred from a perforated paper stencil or block printed.
- Metal is first beaten into thin strips that are passed through flames of variable degrees to achieve different colors in the metal. This is subsequently cut into fine wires which are further beaten with a tiny hammer (for hours) to produce a thin, paper-like density that can be used to embroider on the fabric.
- Fardi, literally meaning dots, is the most basic yet beautiful type of Mukaish work. Dots are stitched in different sizes and patterns.
- Size of the dot depends on the width of the wire used and is referred to as numbers - point 4 being the larger dot, point 2 smaller, point 1 being the smallest
- In kamdani, the wire attached to a small length of thread is pulled through the fabric with a needle and worked into striking motifs. This is also referred to as ‘fancy kaam’. Kamdani is fast becoming a rarity and most of the craftsmen are elderly men.
- After the embroidery is done, the fabric is laid flat on a blanket and rubbed over with a cowrie shell or a glass bottle. This flattens and burnishes the wire, also making it appear brighter.
Source :
https://www.dsource.in/resource/mukaish-work-lucknow/making-process
https://www.dsource.in/resource/mukaish-work-lucknow/introduction
https://www.adachikan.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/b2-600x375.jpg
Craft Name: Applique
Location: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh / Gujarat
Community: NA
Similar Crafts in the world:
The word “applique” is derived from the French verb “appliquer” which means “to put on”. The art of making applique refers to the technique of stitching pieces of fabric onto a larger textile to create motifs and patterns. Edges of the fabric tiny pieces are usually folded underneath and stitched but sometimes they are not and left raw.
Various apparel and home products are prepared using applique by forming floral and animal designs. During the Mughal era, applique work became a preferred imperial style of producing elegant textile products. The technique was introduced in the 11th century and became the most popular craft used in almost every part of the country with regional variations. In Bihar the technique flourished as khatab, in Gujarat, the technique was combined beautifully with quilting to produce the dhandki quilts. Applique work is, can be combined with intricate embroidery and mirror work for an enhanced look.
Process:
- After the planning of the design, the required size of the fabrics is cut into shapes needed for the pattern.
- All the cut pieces of fabric are laid on a flat surface to check the layout.
- Once the layout is set, fabric pieces are attached to the base fabric by stitching the cut edges inwards in turn creating the required forms.
- The base of the applique patchwork thus made is ironed neatly.
Source :
https://gaatha.com/wp-content/uploads/traditional-applique.jpg
https://www.dsource.in/resource/applique-and-patchwork-kutch-gujarat/making-process
https://www.dsource.in/resource/applique-and-patchwork-kutch-gujarat/introduction
